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The sound of a wheezy bagpipe floats up from the valley floor as my
trekking group picks its way down a terraced Himalayan hillside. Far
below, a wedding party emerges from a grove of cedars to cross a
rickety bridge. The groom and his white horse are tinselled points
of colour among the dark foliage. Singing and clapping, the all-male
procession vanishes as quickly as it had materialised. Somewhere in
a village above, a bride waits to be escorted to her new home.
For relaxation therapists, the dream landscape constitutes one of the
tools of the trade. "Imagine yourself in the most serene garden, the
most beautiful scenery in the world . . .'' drones the TV hypnotist,
the yoga guru. I know where I would go. My own interior escape route
lies in the foothills of the Himalayas: in Nepal and Bhutan, Shimla
and Sikkim, a jigsaw composition of tree-high rhododendrons,
tumbling streams and prayer flags, all set against a horizon that
climbs forever to reach the blue-shadowed peaks that roof the world.
Now I can rearrange the imagined pieces all over again, thanks to a
small trekking enterprise in Kumaon, the eastern region of the
fledgling state of Uttaranchal in the western Himalayas. Though
hardly a hardcore trekkie - my own puffing probably outdid that of
the bagpipe - I am seduced by these hills, and am fairly fit, and
thus have seized with gratitude upon a holiday that offers serious
but well-supported walking.
I'm waiting for curtain-up. For, floating weightlessly on the
horizon, somewhere beyond the haze that in spring veils the endless
folds of the Shivalik Hills, is the showstopper - a 180-degree
panorama of the central Himalayan massif. From Kedarnath and
wedge-shaped Nanda Gunthi, the pyramid of Trisul, the twin prongs of
Nanda Devi, eastward to the five crests of Panchuli and the Api
range in Nepal, this 200-mile eyeful packs in the biggest
concentration of peaks between 20,000ft and 26,000ft in all the
world.
With the comforts of Delhi's Imperial Hotel only a night's train
ride behind, having your breath taken away in a hammock without
stirring a single step seems like cheating.
We walk for five to seven hours a day, at heights roughly between
5,000ft and 7,500ft, stopping a lot. There is plenty to detain us.
The old houses look cool and inviting, their stone roofs covered
with drying sheaves of wheat, their heavily decorated shutters
painted blue to ward off mosquitoes. In almost every flagged
courtyard a granny sits on her heels, winnowing grain with a wooden
paddle, sifting piles of lentils and mustard seeds, rising to bring
water to a nursing buffalo tethered in the shade.
Far below, the terraced fields spill like an arrested flow of fudge
down to a parched river bed. By late spring, with the season six
weeks ahead of itself, the area is desperately short of water. The
June harvest is already destroyed by drought, our guide says. But
the heights are green, slippery with pine needles, pungent with the
scent of resin tapped from scorched trunks, noisy with cuckoo and
koel, the Himalayan nightingale.
Just below our highest point, where the Old Jageshwar Ridge cuts the
breeze like a knife, a forest of rhododendrons drops scarlet flowers
at our feet.
Every day adds fresh detail to my imagined jigsaw: the little tea
house marooned in the fields, where we drink peppery chai while
mynah birds squabble in the apricot trees overhead; the country
temples shaped like outsized mushrooms, their carved gods worn down
by a thousand years of devotion to almost formless lumps of stone.
The resident deity may be little more than a smudge of paint on a
biscuit tin lid, but the shrines never lack offerings, a single
flower or a touch of vermilion kumkum powder.
Porters, affable non-professionals hired from neighbouring villages
through hotel contacts, carry our luggage, including bedding rolls
and cooking pots. This trek could not work without the invisible
networks that link the Pahari hill people. If not actually related,
everybody seems to know everybody else. Gossip and laughter drift up
with the smoke from the ground-floor kitchens where the house's
owner joins our porters to prepare the evening meal. Charpoy nights,
spent on webbed frame beds, may have their Spartan moments, but the
corollary, finding myself a guest in a Himalayan village instead of
a stranger in a tent on the edge, feels like true luxury.
Kumaoni cooks are highly sought after in Delhi, for honesty as well
as for their culinary skills. Ravenous at the end of each day, we
fall upon warming mountain food: brown rotis made with finger millet
flour, black dhal, chutneys made with lemon and roasted hemp seeds;
chicken or mutton curries sizzled in mustard oil. Breakfasts on the
terraces major on vegetable parathas, hot on chilli and coriander,
cooled with buffalo curd.
At Deora, our first base, the neighbouring courtyard seethes with
noise and colour as the women of the village celebrate another
wedding, led by an elderly lady bashing a kerosene tin drum. The
boys have not yet returned from fetching the bride from Ranikhet and
we don't want to intrude, but repeated invitations are sent across
to our courtyard.
By the end of the evening the groom's mother has lined up her three
daughters for my inspection as potential wives for my son. I blame
the rhododendron juice. The longed-for rain arrives ahead of the
bridal party, each gust of wind temporarily dousing the lights and
silencing the Hindi film music that competes with the odd roll of
thunder. Eventually, a little girl called Punam flits over to beckon
frantically with henna-patterned hands: the bride and the musicians
have arrived.
A terrified-looking teenager, the bride is dressed to the nines in
plum-coloured silk and embroidered net, with a glittery headdress
and a nose ring the size of a prize heifer's. She has never met her
new family and keeps her eyes modestly glued to her new Bata
wedge-heels, 21st-century talismans.
Later Yoginder, our trainee guide and fixer - we are staying in his
uncle's house - tells us that our coming to the village on such an
auspicious day has been a good omen. "The people are happy that
foreigners show an interest.''
The women harvesting wheat in the Jageshwar valley, binding their
sheaves with a wisp of straw and an expert twist of the sickle, call
to each other that Delhi wallahs are coming. They have never seen a
digital camera and laugh incredulously at their own images.
Here in the Kumaoni hills, I have never once been hassled to buy a
single thing. A small-scale trek, involving the local people on
their own terms, brings modest but welcome revenue. Meanwhile, the
impact on this remote farming region will remain low, since only one
house is set aside in each of three or four villages, a day's walk
apart, and no more than four strangers can turn up at a time.
Umit Singh makes the exception, a farmer with enough faith in the
stunning setting of his lone 7,500ft eyrie on the Old Jageshwar
Ridge to have built a hostel for visitors. The accommodation at
Jwalabanj looks much as in the villages, sparse and clean with
separate cabins for loos and bucket washes, but with the addition of
a seating area by the family shrine in a rose garden that overlooks
the rhododendron forests in one direction and the Himalayan peaks in
the other.
At night, everyone gathers in Umit Singh's kitchen, the open hearth
lighting the crouched figures of our host and travelling companions
as they roll out rotis and pass them to the fire in relays, loading
plates with goat curry, dhal, rice and a formidable array of our
host's home-made pickles. Few visitors seem to have found their way
to this enchanting spot. Only nine foreign signatures stand before
our own in his five-year-old visitors' book.
At dawn there is a knock at my door. Would Madam like to see the
snows? Wouldn't she just. We race up the last ridge just in time to
find the ice goddess Nanda Devi and her acolytes floating, detached
above the horizon, before retiring behind their veil of summer heat.
Who needs hypnosis?
Cazenove+Loyd (020 7384 2332, www.cazloyd.com) arranges treks in the
foothills of the Indian Himalayas as part of a 9-day itinerary, from
£ 1,900 per person (based on two people sharing a double room). This
includes a British Airways return flight from London to Delhi;
accommodation at the Nikko in Delhi for two nights and guiding in
Delhi; sleeper train to the mountains and drive back; and three
nights in village houses.
Best months for village treks September, October, November,
February, March, April. Guidebook Footloose in the Himalaya by Bill
Aitken (Permanent Black, 450 rupees - buy it in Delhi).
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