INDIAN

TERRITORY

On a trek in northern India, in
the newly created state of
Uttranchal, JULIET CLOUGH is
delighted by the landscape-
and the hospitality of the
villagers with whom she lodges.


"The privilege is all mine. Foreign footprints are almost as rare as Lakshmi's in the remote and ravishingly beautiful foothills of Kumaon. Part of the newly created, newly accessible state of Uttranchal. We will see no other foreigners in the course of our four day hike; instead, a slice of Indian life in which strangers feature as curiosities but also as welcome guests, not merely sources of cash".

"Higher up are forests where Himalayan magpies flash through the pines, and where scarlet-flowered rhododendron groves tower more than 9 meters high, occasionally parting to reveal a background of stupendous peaks..."

"....We picnic at village teahouses or by tiny wayside temples painted in the brilliant oranges and pinks that only Indian dares combine."

"A wimp when it comes to camping. I appreciate the feel-good factor built into this sort of stunning trek."

"Apart from bringing welcome revenue, this kind of tourism has very little impact on those villages through which we pass. Meanwhile, I can enjoy the rugged bit...safe in the knowledge that at the end of each day lies not only a clean room and a home cooked meal but a rare chance to observe a remote mountain community from the inside."